WHEN MY VALVES OPEN AND/OR
CLOSE THERE IS A LOUD THUMPING, BANGING NOISE IN THE PIPES.
WHAT IS IT?
The sound you are hearing is called waterhammer. This is
something you will want to correct, as it can cause damage
to your pipes and equipment over a period of time. If the
water velocity in your pipes is too high, the valves may be
slamming shut, causing the waterhammer. If you have flow control
valves, turn them down to help to lessen the problem. Another
way to alleviate this problem is to purchase a waterhammer
suppressor at you local plumbing supply house and install
it yourself. Using a larger supply line from the water source
to the valves also helps reduce waterhammer. Another reason
is if your sprinkler heads do not have check valves or the
seal-o-matic (SAM) feature and are draining water out of the
heads on the lowest point in the line. When the valve opens
and sends water down this pipe, the water hits the air and
crashes into fittings causing waterhammer. If these solutions
don't work, we recommend you consult a professional installer
to help correct the problem.
Here are a few things to check in determining if your solenoid
is bad. Do you see any visual hints that the solenoid has
failed, such as rust? Are the wire connections in waterproof
connections? You can also remove the solenoid and have it
tested at a local service location. An electrical resistance
test should typically indicate a reading between 20 and 60
ohms for a solenoid that is operating properly.
Before you worry, try these simple solutions. Make sure that
your valves are clean and that no debris is blocking them.
Also, if the valve was recently installed, make sure that
the flow direction arrows are pointed towards the sprinklers.
(This is a common and sometimes embarrassing mistake that
even seasoned installers can make.)
HOW DO I MANUALLY OPERATE
THE RAIN BIRD VALVES ON MY SYSTEM?
To manual operate the valve, turn the solenoid (the black
device with the two wires coming out of it) to the left 1/4
turn. This will allow the valve to manually turn on. To turn
the valve off, turn the solenoid to the right until it is
finger tight. BE SURE YOU DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! Some valves
are equipped with a small thumbscrew that is called a bleeder
screw. It is located right on top of the valve body and can
be turned ½ turn to open the valve as well.
The manifold is where the irrigation valves are located.
The manifold protects these valves that operate the individual
systems in your lawn. Generally speaking, you may have one
manifold in the front yard and one in the back yard for the
designated areas.
If your sprinkler heads are leaking water after the system
has turned off or are on constantly two things may be happening.
1) The system may be draining water out of the lowest head(s).
This leakage will last only a few minutes until the higher
pipes in the system are empty of water. (Rain Bird offers
the Seal-A-Matic (SAM) check valve to prevent puddling of
water in lower heads if this is a real problem.) 2) The valves
may have debris in them, which is not allowing the valve to
shut down completely. When this happens, water bleeds past
the valve. If this is the case, the valve must be flushed
out and cleaned of any debris. This is achieved by manually
opening the valve with the bleeder screw. Often this will
flush any debris out of the valve. If your valve is not equipped
with a bleeder screw then open the valve by turning the solenoid
(the black device with two wires coming out of it) ¼
of a turn. Flushing the valve a couple of times in this manner
will often remove debris that can cause the valve to leak
like this. 3) Make sure your bleeder screw and solenoid are
closed finger tight (closed clockwise). Also make sure your
flow control is not open all of the way, which can cause a
valve to stick on. If this does not fix the problem, it may
be necessary to take apart the valve and do some repairs.
Be sure to turn the mainline water line OFF before taking
the valves apart. If your valve has a diaphragm, like a DV,
DVF, CP, CPF, DAS or other similar valves you can remove the
six screws holding down the bonnet (top of valve body) and
access the diaphragm. It is rubber and will be separating
the two parts of the valve. When you take the diaphragm off
of the bonnet, be sure and note how it came off so when you
put it back on you replace it the same way. Once the diaphragm
is removed, visually inspect it for debris and cracks. If
there are cracks or splits in it then it needs to be replaced.
Next you need to put the diaphragm assembly back into the
bonnet and reassemble the valve. If it still leaks, call Rain
Bird technical support at (800) 724-6247. If your valve is
a piston style valve (like an APAS) then call Rain Bird technical
support for help with this problem.
The ideal location for the anti-siphon valve is 6 to 12 inches
above the highest head on the line it is servicing. The specific
location will depend on local plumbing codes. The valve must
allow a vacuum break between the main line and the service
line so water cannot be siphoned back into the main water
line.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES
IN THE VARIOUS VALVES AND WHAT TYPE OF VALVE SHOULD I USE?
There are basically three different types of valves on the
irrigation market today. Rain Bird offers a wide
variety of options in each of these categories. Each type
of valve serves a different function. Your choice will depend
on the system's unique needs. Here are the major differences
to help you make your choices. 1) Piston Valves
- This type of valve has a piston action plunger that opens
and closes as the solenoid is activated. This type of valve
is not recommended for use on pumps and wells or where dirty
water may be a factor. 2) Anti-Siphon Valves
- This type of valve may be used in many areas (check with
local plumbing codes) as the individual circuit valve. This
valve MUST be located 8 to 12 inches above the highest head
on the circuit. The anti-siphon device allows the circuit
to empty of water if there is a pressure loss before the valve
from the mainline. In order for water to effectively drain,
the valve must be above ground, in a place where the water
can flow away from the valve. If the valve is situated below
the sprinkler heads, the anti-siphon device will not seal
itself and will continuously dump water from the device until
the valve is raised above the highest head on the circuit.
3) In-Line valves - These valves are usually
placed underground in a plastic sprinkler box which helps
make them more accessible, easier to locate, easier to do
maintenance on, and easier to inspect. Direct burial of these
valves complicates all of these things and is not recommended.
Rain Bird recommends that all in-line valves are installed
horizontally. Rain Bird tests these valves in a horizontal
position with the solenoid pointing up. This valve, in most
cases, must have a backflow preventer in front of it to protect
the drinking water supply (See local codes for specific regulations).
Rain Bird also offers a Flow Control Option that can be combined
with any of the three valve types. This allows the user to
regulate, at the individual valve, the flow of water going
to the circuit. With this feature, you are able to mix low-pressure
sprinkler circuits in the same design as high-pressure circuits
without regulating the entire underground system.
Local codes usually dictate the type of valve you are allowed
to use - whether it's the globe or anti-siphon design. Some
cities and towns allow anti-siphon valves, while other cities
require back flow preventers. Check with your water company
or local building codes to find out which type of valve they
require.
WHERE CAN I BUY REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR MY RAIN BIRD VALVES?
Replacement valve diaphragms, solenoids, bleed screws and other replacement parts are available for purchase from the Rain Bird Online Store or by calling (877) 727-8772 toll free.
